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Aquamarine and Diamonds gold ring

Aquamarine and diamonds ring

Last addition to the shop, here is a gold ring with  an aquamarine as center stone and laboratory grown diamonds.

I have enjoyed making this ring, since I have gotten the aquamarine I was wondering what to do with it. It happens almost all the time when I buy stones, first I buy and later (sometimes much later) I integrate them in a design. A lot of sketches to go through to find the one that will sparkle the idea and the final drawing.

Once found, it was time to make it!

Firstly I did what I consider the most difficult for me at the moment, the making of the bezel for the trillion cut aquamarine. I had to make a flat wire of 5 x 2 x 40mm, then bend it so it has the same curve as the gem, cut it in three part and solder them together to get the triangle shape. It is the second time that I do a trillion shape bezel and I know what to change in the way I prepar it. I will make more of them until they feel easy to make.

Secondly, the making of the shank and the wire for the diamonds is the easy part, just drawing the gold into a square wire of 1.2mm, and bending it into shape and desired size. For the tiny balls, I've used a piece of charcoal in which I have drilled holes using  a ball bur, and then melted tiny pieces of gold in them.

After soldering everything together and cleaning the ring, it was time to prepare the settings.

For the aquamarine it was easy, just going slowly and be patient to not take out to much material. I've used different sizes of ball burs and setting burs to shape the bezel, until the stone would fit snug enough in it. Then file down the excess of material on the prongs.
For the diamonds it was a bit more tricky, I am still training myself to set stones in this way (watching a lot of videos and practicing as much as I can at the workshop making this type of setting). I've used a divider to mark the position of the stones on the wire, then used a drill bit of 0.7mm to make a deep mark, and used different ball burs from 0.8mm to 1.3mm, adjusting the distance between the holes. Finally I've drilled through and used a diamond shaped bur to finish the spot where the stones go, and a cylinder bur to cut out the material between each stones.
After putting all the diamonds in their place, I have used an engraver to split in two the prongs and already push them over the stones. To finish the prongs round I have used a cupped bur.

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